Skip to content
ItineraryThe stagesGalleryPlannerGPX tracksFrançais

Practical info

Everything you need to prepare your traverse — budget, accommodation, gear, timing — and the concrete answers to the questions you really ask yourself before setting off.

The guides

Prepare, step by step

When to go

Season, weather, crowds: choosing the right window.

View →

Accommodation

The 44 refuges, gîtes and bergeries, stage by stage.

View →

Refuge bookings

How and when to book (PNRC central system + private).

View →

Budget

What a GR20 costs: the realistic range.

View →

Gear

Pack, boots, sleep system: the list that matters.

View →

Transport & access

Getting to Calenzana, leaving from Conca.

View →

Checklist

The full checklist to download (PDF).

View →

Mistakes to avoid

The classic traps before and during.

View →

Safety

The reflexes that really matter

The GR20 remains a high-mountain route, even in midsummer. Beyond gear and weather, here is what I would check systematically before and during.

Fire & access to the massifs

From 15 June to 30 September, fires and cigarettes are forbidden in the massifs, forests and maquis. In the event of severe risk, massifs can close — the GR20 included. The official wildfire-risk map is updated every evening around 6 p.m. for the following day: check it the day before, and keep 1 to 2 days of margin in your schedule.

Departure from Calenzana before 11 a.m.

No departure on the GR20 from Calenzana is permitted after 11 a.m. (heat and wildfire risk). In practice, you have to set off early on the morning of day 1: plan your transport ahead and sleep in Calvi or Calenzana the night before.

Coverage & emergency numbers

The signal is unstable, or even absent, near several refuges (Ortu di u Piobbu, Carrozzu, Tighjettu, Ciottulu, Manganu, l'Onda, Usciolu, Paliri). Make the most of covered areas for the weather and your loved ones. In an emergency: 112, 17 or 18, and the Corsica PGHM on 04 95 24 24 00. A power bank is not a luxury.

Early season: it is not summer everywhere

In June, snowfields can make certain northern stages genuinely alpine (Carrozzu→Asco, Asco→Tighjettu, Manganu→Petra Piana…). Depending on the year, the Park recommends crampons, an ice axe and rigid boots. Before an early-season departure, check the PNRC page and Météo-France Corsica Mountain.

GR20 safety: the complete guide (storms, snowfields, rescue…) →

This information changes every season: the reference sources remain the Corsica Regional Natural Park and Météo-France. Mon GR20 is a first-hand account, not an official service.

Frequently asked questions

The GR20 FAQ

Is the GR20 really that hard?
Yes, it is tough. But its difficulty depends on the pace you choose, the weight of your pack, the weather, your preparation and your ability to recover. Over 16 days, it stays within reach of fit, well-prepared hikers. Over 12 days, with doubled-up stages, the difficulty moves to a completely different level.
Is the GR20 suitable for a beginner?
No, not as a first real multi-day trek. The GR20 already demands that you know how to walk for several days, manage a pack, descend for long stretches, place your feet on unstable ground and stay clear-headed once fatigue sets in. A very fit beginner can prepare for it, but they must first do long hikes, test their gear and learn to manage effort over several days.
How many days should you plan for?
The classic format often sits around 16 days. In 12 days like us, the GR20 becomes far more athletic: some days go well beyond 20 km, with a lot of elevation gain and less recovery. More than 16 days can be an excellent option if you want to add variants and spend less time chasing the evening logistics.
Which is the best direction: North → South or South → North?
We did the classic North → South direction. With hindsight, I think a start from Conca going South → North really deserves to be considered. The south would let the body acclimatise gradually before reaching the more rocky, more jagged and more demanding north. The downside is mental: you move forward knowing the hardest part comes at the end.
Can you wild camp freely on the GR20?
No, you must not imagine pitching your tent just anywhere. Bivouacking is done in the designated areas around the refuges or certain bergeries, with booking or payment depending on the case. In high season, the pitches can be cramped and very much in demand.
What budget should you plan for?
In maximum self-sufficiency, you will mainly pay for the bivouacs and a few resupplies. If you often eat in the refuges, drink beers, buy sandwiches or rent tents, the budget climbs fast. For two weeks, a range of €500 to €900 per person is realistic, but it can be exceeded if you favour comfort.
What is the best time to go?
The simplest period logistically is the season when the refuges are staffed. In summer, the services are available, but heat and crowds come with them. We did it from 18 to 29 August: the heat was a real factor, but the open services helped us a lot. Off-season, the experience is wilder but demands far more self-sufficiency.
Can you rely on the meals at the refuges?
Yes and no. You can often find something to eat, but the quality, the quantity and the value for money are very variable. I recommend keeping a food margin: freeze-dried meals, effective snacks, carbs, protein, and enough to save an evening if the meal falls short.
Is there phone coverage on the GR20?
Not always. Some refuges or valleys get poor coverage, or none at all. You have to make the most of the moments when the signal comes back to reassure your loved ones, check the weather, manage a booking or arrange transport.
What advice would you give to someone who is still hesitating?
Do not set off on a whim, but do not let yourself be paralysed by the GR20's reputation either. Prepare seriously, test your gear, lighten your pack, work on the descents, learn to eat and drink before you hit the wall, then accept that the plan sometimes changes. If you arrive humble and prepared, the GR20 can become one of the finest adventures of your life.