A real itinerary
The GR20 in 12 days: my complete North–South itinerary
We traversed the GR20 from north to south in 12 days, from Calenzana to Conca. This schedule calls for solid fitness, real consistency and good effort management, but it remains coherent for athletic, well-prepared hikers.
An athletic schedule
Why 12 days?
Our goal was a complete, steady and realistic traverse, in line with our time off, our level and our wish to experience the GR20 without turning it into a race. The 12-day format imposes a few very long days, notably toward Petra Piana, Vizzavona, the Col de Verde and Paliri.
What this schedule demands
You have to accept the relentless rhythm: getting up early, walking for hours, managing the heat, the descents, the pack and the rough patches. The hardest part isn't a single stage, but the accumulation.
What this schedule delivers
It makes for a dense, complete traverse, with a real turning point at Vizzavona and an arrival in Conca that still carries plenty of force. For us it was coherent, but never easy.
The 12 stages
The complete table of the 12 days
I've reused the data already on the site: distance, elevation, timings, total time and difficulty. The elevation gain / loss figures remain rounded and smoothed GPS values.
| Day | Stage | Distance | Gain | Loss | Time | Night | Diff. | Link |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Calenzana → Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu | 11.2 km | +1,441 m | -188 m | 7h01 | Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu | 3/5 | Read |
| 2 | Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu → Refuge de Carrozzu | 8.0 km | +753 m | -1,022 m | 8h03 | Refuge de Carrozzu | 4/5 | Read |
| 3 | Refuge de Carrozzu → Ascu Stagnu / Haut Asco | 5.6 km | +826 m | -670 m | 6h07 | Ascu Stagnu / Haut Asco | 4/5 | Read |
| 4 | Ascu Stagnu / Haut Asco → Bergerie de Ballone | 9.9 km | +1,175 m | -1,141 m | 8h09 | Bergerie de Ballone | 5/5 | Read |
| 5 | Bergerie de Ballone → Castel di Vergio | 13.7 km | +727 m | -764 m | 7h25 | Castel di Vergio | 3/5 | Read |
| 6 | Castel di Vergio → Refuge de Petra Piana | 24.9 km | +1,479 m | -1,044 m | 11h39 | Refuge de Petra Piana | 5/5 | Read |
| 7 | Refuge de Petra Piana → Vizzavona | 20.2 km | +1,130 m | -2,021 m | 11h11 | Vizzavona | 5/5 | Read |
| 8 | Vizzavona → Relais San Petru di Verde / Col de Verde | 26.9 km | +1,465 m | -1,124 m | 9h20 | Relais San Petru di Verde / Col de Verde | 5/5 | Read |
| 9 | Relais San Petru di Verde / Col de Verde → Refuge d’Usciolu | 15.5 km | +1,234 m | -782 m | 9h05 | Refuge d’Usciolu | 5/5 | Read |
| 10 | Refuge d’Usciolu → Bergerie de Croci | 13.7 km | +376 m | -569 m | 6h37 | Bergerie de Croci | 4/5 | Read |
| 11 | Bergerie de Croci → Refuge d’I Paliri | 22.0 km | +1,102 m | -1,591 m | 11h27 | Refuge d’I Paliri | 5/5 | Read |
| 12 | Refuge d’I Paliri → Conca | 13.2 km | +357 m | -1,155 m | 4h59 | Conca | 3/5 | Read |
| Total | 12 days | 184.9 km | +12,065 m | -12,071 m | 101h03 |
Key takeaway: distance alone isn't enough to judge a day. On this schedule, the fatigue comes mainly from technical terrain, the descents and the run of back-to-back long stages.
How to read these figures? The distances, elevation figures and times shown come from our tracks and our real experience on the ground. They can vary depending on the GPS app used, the breaks, the variants, the weather and your physical state on the day.
On-the-ground tips
Highlights and on-the-ground tips
For each day: the high point, the thing to watch out for and the lesson I take from the trail.
| Day | Stage | High point | Watch out for | On-the-ground tip |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Calenzana → Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu | The start, the sea behind you, the first real climb. | Heat, an overloaded pack, setting off too fast. | Start calm and keep some energy in reserve. |
| 2 | Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu → Refuge de Carrozzu | Entering the rocky, technical GR20. | Rock, hunting for waymarks, jarring descents. | Stow your poles when your hands become useful. |
| 3 | Refuge de Carrozzu → Ascu Stagnu / Haut Asco | The Spasimata, slabs and the arrival at Haut Asco. | Constant focus through the rocky sections. | Make the most of Asco to refuel and recover. |
| 4 | Ascu Stagnu / Haut Asco → Bergerie de Ballone | Pointe des Éboulis, a true high-mountain day. | Weather, scree slopes, nervous fatigue. | An early start and a safety margin. |
| 5 | Bergerie de Ballone → Castel di Vergio | River, forest, turquoise pools and a resupply. | Don't mistake a less technical stage for an easy one. | Use the pass to resupply and recharge. |
| 6 | Castel di Vergio → Refuge de Petra Piana | A life-saving break facing the Melo and Capitello lakes. | A huge distance, managing your energy. | Accept a long stop when your body gives out. |
| 7 | Refuge de Petra Piana → Vizzavona | The symbolic end of the north, booking the Monte d'Oro hotel. | A very long day, an endless descent. | Don't underestimate the transition to Vizzavona. |
| 8 | Vizzavona → Relais San Petru di Verde / Col de Verde | A life-saving sandwich at E Capanelle, a late arrival. | A late start, subtle waymarking in the forest. | Don't get caught out by the south: less technical, but very long. |
| 9 | Relais San Petru di Verde / Col de Verde → Refuge d’Usciolu | A break at Prati and the first view toward the sea. | The Croci target abandoned: listen to your body. | Know when to scale back your ambition to protect the finish. |
| 10 | Refuge d’Usciolu → Bergerie de Croci | An "all in" break at Bassetta, a second wind after the call to Laura. | The south stays technical and demanding. | When your head gives out, a real break can save the day. |
| 11 | Bergerie de Croci → Refuge d’I Paliri | Monte Incudine, Bavella, a violent storm on arrival. | Don't think Bavella is the end. | Keep some energy after Bavella, anchor the tent. |
| 12 | Refuge d’I Paliri → Conca | The Bay of Porto-Vecchio in the distance, the emotion of the finish. | A final stage more physical than expected. | Stay focused right to the end, savour the arrival. |
Methodology
How to read our figures
Level required
Who I recommend this schedule to
The 12-day format isn't the most relaxed. It can work very well, but only if you arrive prepared, with a sensible pack and a real mental cushion.
Beginner
Too intense for a first long experience in the mountains.
Fit, but no mountain experience
Possible but risky; better to allow more margin.
Regular hiker
A good choice with proper preparation.
Experienced hiker
A coherent and efficient schedule.
Relaxed group
Better to plan more days to enjoy it more.
With hindsight
What I'd do again
Vizzavona
Keep a real recovery night at Vizzavona. The break does you good, physically and mentally.
Margin
Keep some margin for meals, the weather and late arrivals. A day can tip over fast.
Flexibility
Stay flexible according to fatigue, aches and the state of the group. The plan should serve the traverse, not the other way around.
To adjust
What I'd change
Resupply
Anticipate certain resupplies better to avoid depending on purchases that are too limited or come too late.
South
Don't believe the south is easy. It's less technical, but it wears you down differently, especially once fatigue has set in.
Pack
Lighten the pack even further if possible. Every kilo becomes a real decision as the days go by.
Keep going