Departure 07h58 · Arrival 17h03. 15.5 km, +1,234 m, -782 m, 7h02 on the move and 9h05 in total. A day about pacing yourself, shaped by the knee and the smart decision to stop at Usciolu.
Waking up at Col de Verde, the original plan was ambitious: keep going all the way to Croci. But on the GR20 you never decide things on a map alone. Since the day before, a pain had settled into my left knee, and it didn't feel like a passing little twinge.
After several days of descents, scree slopes and compensating with awkward footing, the body clearly starts sending signals. We're past the discovery phase now: you know that pushing on stubbornly can turn a manageable ache into a real problem. And with several days still to come, it would be a mistake to gamble with that.
« The GR20 doesn't only reward those who move fast. It also rewards those who know how to last. »
We rethink the day's goal. Croci can wait. The priority: reach Usciolu cleanly, without making the knee worse. This isn't giving up, it's pacing yourself. On the GR20, knowing when to ease off at the right moment is as much a part of success as knowing when to grit your teeth.
The climb after Col de Verde is a quick reminder that even a "scaled-back" day is still a proper mountain stage. The pain doesn't stop you from moving forward, but it forces a new way of walking: cleaner, more careful, less aggressive on every step.
The Prati refuge becomes a stage within the stage. We really stop there: coffee, a break, a chance to breathe. At this point on the GR20, a terrace, a bit of quiet and simply setting the pack down for a few minutes are enough to put your head back in order.
From Prati you can make out the coast in the distance, towards Porto-Vecchio. Seeing the sea again after several days in the mountains is a strange feeling. The end of the route really does exist now, it's no longer just theoretical. We're not there yet (far from it), but something shifts in your mind.
Arriving at Usciolu confirms it was the right call. More than 17 km, nearly 1,500 m of elevation gain, but a day kept under control. We drop the packs with the feeling of having respected the body instead of grinding it down.
That day taught me something simple: you can be motivated, close to the finish, mentally solid — and still have to adapt the plan. The GR20 doesn't only reward those who move fast. It also rewards those who know how to last.
